Osterreich: Wien und Hallstatt

For you non-German speakers (erm, like me) that's "Austria: Vienna and Hallstatt." The Broseph and I arrived in Vienna last Tuesday after a pretty easy journey from New York, despite almost missing our flight! After finding our hostel (http://www.hostelruthensteiner.com/) we cleaned up and set out to find some lunch and hike around the city a bit.

Vienna has this great way of sort of springing sights on you. You're walking around thinking, this is nice, very Euro, nice buildings and whatnot, and then all of a sudden you walk around a corner and past some trees and see some giant palace or something. It's truly amazing how you just stumble upon these giant edifices- we just sort of came across the place where Hitler told 250,000 people that Austria was part of the Third Reich in 1938, and it's not a small place! My favorite building was the city hall, or the 'rathaus', a huge gothic (I think?) monstrosity that goes on for a few blocks. With several huge Austrian flags hanging from it, it looks very grand and imposing. (I'm afraid I haven't yet found a location to plug my camera in and get some pictures up - almost everything I write about will be better once those are in here. Hopefully soon.)

Anyway, after that we came across the cathedral, also lovely. We were feeling a bit tired though, so we decided to go and sit in the park opposite. Vienna is very pro just sitting and taking life in (there are literally chairs everywhere), and there were huge comfy deckchairs in the park that were free for anyone to use. It was glorious, just chilling there in the sun, watching the people and soaking in the Euro-ness.

After a bit more walking about we went back to the hostel for some happy hour cheap beers and then we grabbed some traditional dinner - sausage, sauerkraut and a cube of hash browns - before crashing out after our long journey.

The next day we went back to some of the buildings we'd seen to take them in with fresh eyes, and grab a coffee at a sidewalk cafe. After that we took the tram to the big cemetery in Vienna where lots of famous people like Beethoven and Brahms are buried. There's also a lovely big church right in the middle which was nice to look around. We did suddenly find ourselves exhausted however after a lot of walking, so we went back to the hostel for a nap. After that we met some of our roommates - Courtney from Vancouver and Chris who's from England but works for Disney Cruise Lines out of Orlando. They were lovely and gave us all sorts of good travel tips, especially as Courtney had just come from some places we're going (like Budapest, where I am now and am staying in the hostel she recommended). We went to happy hour with them, and there we met a lot of other people - more from Canada, some from Ireland and one from Santa Cruz in Cali! We nabbed some pizza for supper at a local restaurant before hitting the sack again.

On Thursday we took the subway out to Schonbrunn Palace, where the royal Hapsburg family lived and ruled Austria from 1282-1918. The palace is fantastic - a Austrian Versailles - and the grounds are spectacular. It was drizzling a bit, but we still did a good old walk and during a real downpour hid under some thick trees and ate our lunch (super budget bread and cheese from the local 'Penny Markt'). When the rain stopped, we did the maze and the labryinth and played all these silly games they had in there - kaleidoscope mirrors and bouncing board thingies. We seriously might have been having more fun than the kids, who were looking at the two Americans bouncing around like we were loony.

After the palace we went back into the city and did a bit of shopping - "Joe" (that's the Broseph - it's how he introduces himself now, a college thing. At 6'2"ish, with a new buzz cut and aviators, it's like I have a bodyguard) needed some new t-shirts for 'going out', so we hit up an H&M and whatnot. Then we did some laundry and stuff at the hostel and got some salad for dinner from the Penny Markt and made it in the hostel kitchen. After that everyone got together at the bar for happy hour where we met Jason from Australia, Chris from Australia but living in Slovenia, Tara from Chicago and Nick from London. We all went out together to the 'Tanzcafe Jenseits' (which means 'Dance cafe other side'), which used to be a brothel. It was all red velvet with chaise longues everywhere. There was no dancing to be had though, so we went back towards the hostel where we went to the Traveler's Bar. It was full of, guess what, travelers! Packed to the gills with hammered Brits, Aussies, Americans, you name it. I felt like I was in college. Which was kind of great.

Friday we packed up to head out of Vienna and go to a lake town in Austria called Hallstatt. Several years ago, I used to load up my computer with awesome travel photos as my screensavers. One photo I particularly loved was of this little fairytale town, and I promised myself I would get there one day. Well, I kept that promise! It took us about four hours on the train. I was SO excited and had SUCH high expectations, I was almost nervous I'd be let down. The train pulled in, and we got off at a teeny tiny deserted station. We couldn't see the town at all. We followed the only path - which was more like a hiking trail - and at the end was a little ferry to take us across the lake and across the lake...there it was! Hallstatt!!! I actually got quite emotional because I had been so committed to this place I know barely anything about. The ferry ride was fewer than ten minutes, and we got off and it seriously was everything I'd dreamed of! Tiny little houses built into the side of a mountain, little window boxes full of flowers, windy narrow streets everywhere, the church spires I'd seen in the picture...

We ran to our hostel (very basic sort of place, also a restaurant so the proprietor checked us in from behind the bar) and dumped our stuff. It was getting to be dinner time, so we found a fabulous little lakeside restaurant where we had a big slap-up meal. Then we walked along the water, and literally sat by the lake and watched ducks for about an hour. I had read it was all about nature in Hallstatt, and it's so true. Then we grabbed a drink at our hostel - about 10 old Austrian dudes were there smoking away and shouting at each other as they put the world to rights, which appeared to be the extent of the raging nightlife in Hallstatt.

We had read when we arrived that the hostel served breakfast from 8-9:30, so we got up bright and early to eat. However, the place was deserted and there was no breakfast to be had. We walked over to another hotel and asked if we could get breakfast there. It was a buffet, which was great because we wrapped half of it up and stuffed it in our backpacks for lunch! Afterwards, we went on a walk around the lake. It took us about an hour to get to another cute town called Obertrau. We moseyed around there for a while, and then walked back and ate our pilfered lunch in the town square, or Marktplatz. Then we walked to the other end of the town (took us about 30 seconds) and went BACK to the Marktplatz for a coffee, as we had by now seen everything Hallstatt had to offer...or so we thought.

We had heard rumors of a bone chapel, so we hiked back up the windy roads to the Catholic church to investigate. We had missed it before, but there was indeed a small chapel. We paid our way in, and inside was one of the looniest things I've ever seen (I have a feeling I'll say a lot in the coming months, but it was pretty crazy!). This small chapel was packed with skulls, decorated with the names of the people whose bodies they'd once inhabited and their years of birth and death. There are 1200 skulls to be exact, and were put in there to make more room in the tiny graveyard in Hallstatt (if it's not yet clear, this place is teensy weensy!). When I have more time and have put the photos up to give some context here, I'll share some more info I have on the history of this place. After the bone chapel we went back down to a park by the lake and watched swans and put our feet in the water (freezing!). We had dinner at our hostel as it was pouring and way too wet to find anywhere new.

Sunday morning (today) we got up and got ready to head to Budapest. We had about eight hours of trains ahead of us, so we pilfered some more buffet breakfast for lunch. We took the ferry back over the train station and I watched my beloved Hallstatt shrink away. I think my bro said it the best: "I'm really digging this Austro-Bavarian cuteness." Tru dat. I will certainly be back.

Now we're safe and sound in Budapest, with help from the buffet hotel's receptionist who helped book our tickets for us because there was no Internet around and our hostel guy was useless. She (Adela, I think) was seriously the kindest, nicest person ever. She even picked up our tickets for us, and we weren't even staying there. Therefore, the least I can do is recommend that everyone stay at the Hotel Gruner Baum in Hallstatt- its buffet breakfast is very nice.

Anyway, we got to Budapest late in the evening and it's pouring, so we haven't done much except dash across the road from our hostel to get some dinner - amazing hummus and falafel. We're here for four nights and on Thursday go to Croatia. I'll update more as soon as I can.

Auf Wiedersehen!

And so it begins...

Eeeeek! I'm leaving for the airport in an hour. People have been asking me for ages if I'm nervous about this whole thing, and I've kept saying no, because I really wasn't, but today I feel totally nervous! Excited nervous. And not sure exactly what's making me nervous. I'm packed (sort of...this has to be quick!), flights confirmed, cell phone charged... I think I just can't believe this thing I've dreamt about and planned for so long is happening. Now. Today. Like I said, eeeek!!!!

The past two weeks at home have been great, if a bit stressful trying to get everything ready. This last week in particular I have: raided Wal-Mart three times (I'm fine if I NEVER go there again), packed and unpacked twice, called AT&T three times and the bank three times (adding up to about 4 frustrating hours on the phone), booked five places to stay, broken down and cried about how it's all too stressful and I don't want to go anymore four times and stayed out waaaaay too late in NY City once (which was enough - 24+ hours later I'm still feeling it!).

I'm exhausted, and the thing I've done ZERO times is read any travel books or Web sites or know anything about anything except that Greece will be cheap and Bangkok is dangerous.

I'm going to try to stay Zen though, and remember the below advice that I read on a wall in that most sacred of retail places, Cost Plus, many moons ago when the Voyage was but still a dream:

("A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving." - Lao Tzu)

Until next time...Ciao!

East Coast Love

The Notorious B.I.G once said, "If I got to choose a coast I got to choose the East, I live out there, so don't go there." I say, I'm with you Biggie, except DO go there. I just spent a totally fabulous weekend in New Hampshire with my little sister and her BF in their new fancy house on Lake Winnipesaukee, and was reminded of all the joys of New England living (the greatest of which being the wide availability Dunkin' Donuts coffee, which I missed deeply and dearly in California!).

The weekend actually began in the great city of Boston, when I stopped off to see a good friend from my Syracuse days, Scott. We had a lovely dinner and a good old catch up. The following day, I lunched with my San Fran friend Natalie, she of the Sonoma birthday party a few weeks ago. She's moving to Boston (good luck, Natalie!), and happened to be there looking at apartments and things. Was great to see a friendly San Fran face when I'm still missing it so! (I am!)

Friday afternoon it was on to NH with Miranda (the aforementioned sister) after she got out of work. We had a delicious dinner at a local restaurant with Abe (the aforementioned sister's BF) and went home to get ready for a weekend so chock-full of activities I might have been up there for a month! As this is a travel blog and therefore meant to provide information on what one might do when one travels somewhere, I'll share the highlights of the Center Harbor area, interspersed with my general musings.

We kicked off on Saturday with a New Hampshire-style epic voyage to Polly's Pancake Parlor (http://www.pollyspancakeparlor.com/). Wow, those were some good 'cakes. Whole wheat chocolate chip, served in two batches so one half doesn't get cold (such a simple concept and yet makes all the difference!). But Polly's not limited to just one sort of pancake. Oh no, you could have yourself a sampler of all six types with tons of toppings to choose from. Polly's Potatoes were nothing to mess with either. 

Later on, Abe took me for a ride in his 1974 MG Midget. It was my own Mad Men moment and a great way to see more of the beautiful scenery up there. I love the little country towns, particularly (this will sound weird) the post offices! They're all so tiny, I went into one that was literally half the size of my studio in SF, and anyone who knows me knows I loooove mini stuff. The travel-size aisles at Wal-Mart and Target practically give me seizures.

In the afternoon, I was privileged to be part of that most domestic of tasks - purchasing a grill. Abe and Miranda had invited everyone over to the house for a barbeque the next day, but were missing that one vital component. So, it was off to the local Lowe's where more hilarity than one might expect ensued, mostly to do with getting the grill home. Once purchased, we three looked at the Toyota Corolla and said, no problem, the huge heavy box will go in the back seat- not a chance. Ok, we said, it'll probably go in the trunk - no way in hell. We eyed the new roof rack. Somehow, with three people, two bungee cords and the entire population of the Lowe's parking lot unabashedly laughing at us, success was had! We had to take corners veeeery slowly, but the Corolla handled it like a dream. Say what you want about Toyota, but we got the Master Forge home safe and sound. (We were about three minutes from home when Miranda suddenly said, "We should have taken it out of the box!" Aaaaah, yes, good idea.)

We woke up Sunday to a gorgeous day- sunny, warm, just perfection. We had initially planned to go kayaking, but it was too windy so we did ourselves one (actually two) better - go-karts and mini golf! I have seriously never seen so many mini-golf courses in one place. There must be some statistic about New Hampshire and mini-golf, like there is about the vanity license plates...but I digress. Miranda, Abe, Abe's friend Jake and I had a tip-topmost day out, even though I lost at mini-golf and was the slowest go-karter. I definitely recommend the "Funspot" (yes, it's actually called that) if you find yourself up a creek in Hew Hampshire without a kayak.

Sunday evening was barbeque time, and Abe's family all came round for a slap-up meal. It was fabulous to meet everyone whom I've heard so much about. The Master Forge gave a world-class performance and we wrapped the whole thing up with some 'smores on the fire pit. I was so happy I didn't even mind when the bugs came out. It's just all part of being back East!

So, there you go, a totally brilliant New England weekend. I probably haven't helped much if you actually do plan to visit New Hampshire, other than making a strong recommendation for my sister's house with its lovely lake views! Good thing I love it so much, as Abe and Miranda might hear a knock on the door when I get back from the Voyage, broke, homeless and unemployed. 

I was musing on all of this as I drove back down to Connecticut yesterday, through leafy Massachusetts with a cup of beloved Dunkin' in hand, when Katy Perry - esteemed songstress that she is - came on the radio with a new tune. As if reading my mind and speaking only to me, she sang, "You could travel the world, but nothing comes close to the Golden Coast." OK Katy, I hear ya. Duly noted.

Home on the Range

I exaggerate not one bit when I say that I sobbed every possible minute of the way home from San Francisco yesterday - before leaving for the airport, on the ride to the airport, at the check-in desk (Virgin America lady: "You can always come back, right?" Agreed, but I was more upset about the $75 to check my bags!), buying food (again, partly to do with the price), in the departure lounge, during the two-hour delay because of winds in New York and especially during take-off when I had the most spectacular, sparkling view of San Fran. The only times I wasn't crying was when distracted by such examples of journalistic excellence as In Touch and Life & Style - "Heidi Montag: Destroyed by Fame???!!!!????" and "Kim Kardashian: Betraying her Sisters????!!!!!" (Yes to both, just FYI). The couple beside me was very nice, though perhaps slightly alarmed, as I sat there sniffling and stuffing tissues in the seat pocket. The wife did go and sit in an empty row not long after takeoff... I'll assume that had nothing to do with me.

My last week in San Fran-a-licious was excellent - lots of lunches and brunches with friends who don't have strict work schedules, going to the gym at random times of the day (12:23! 5:17!), sitting in the sun. I did get a bunch of errands for the voyage done too - banking and whatnot, so it was an all-around productive week. The BEST part was Thursday and Friday in Calistoga at Canard Vineyard (of earlier blog post fame). The weather was gorgeous, the wine abundant, the food plentiful and the hot tub all a-bubble. The BF took a couple days off work and we drove up for some chillin' out, maxin', relaxin' all cool. We hung out by the pool, had a delicious lunch at Solbar with Candi and Rich (www.solagecalistoga.com - highly recommend) and on Friday did an excellent wine tasting at Quintessa (www.quintessa.com). It's a vineyard on the Silverado Trail that specializes in bio-dynamic farming and sustainable practices and whatnot. It's also well known for the winery's architectural design, which was of interest to the BF. Of interest to me was the delicious vino we took down at 11am - no better way to start the day my friends! Definitely check Quintessa out if you've got some time and pennies to spare - I learned a lot (oh, and there's free cheese. Yep).

Then it was back to San Fran for more shots - Japanese Whatchamacallit and Rabies again. All done now! 10 shots, five prescriptions, one oral vaccine and $2000 I'll never see again. Still jealous?

So, now I'm home in Darien, CT. It's great to be with the fam and we had a really fun Mothers Day - the mom was psyched to have all three of us here for the first time in 10 years or something! I'll spend much of the next two weeks up and down to NYC with the Broseph getting visas, seeing the hometown gang and getting all my gear together. I'm going to New Hampshire this weekend to see my sister's new house, with a likely stop in Boston.

I'm also keeping a close eye on Le Cloud de Ash, which seems to have made a comeback in the past couple of days. It kind of reminds me of the Tiger Woods thing. As in, you heard some initial details back when it all started and said, "Wait? What happened?" Then more and more details started to emerge and you thought, "Oh, this is pretty serious." Then everyone sort of got over it and you didn't hear much on it anymore, and now a new piece of news shows up every so often - "Elin Confirms Divorce" and "Ash Cloud Shuts Down 15 Spanish Airports" - and you think, "Ok, I'll keep my eye on this." I'm counting on In Touch to maintain its high standards of investigative reporting to keep me informed on any and all of the above.

The Last Weekend

Wow, I can't even begin to describe the past few days. I'll begin with Friday, April 30, which was my last day at Allison & Partners. First of all, it was awesome because we played classic tunes like "Party in the USA" and "Poker face" all day, went out for an amazing lunch and just generally had fun. It was like everyone's last day! It got sad when I had to start saying goodbye to folks, which I 100% wasn't ready for! True to form, I was the last person in the office, and I cried my little eyes out as I left my empty (and very dusty- sorry guys! Most know I'm not married to cleanliness particularly...) cube behind. I sniffled and sobbed on my way to meet some friends for drinks. By the time I got there, I had actually calmed down and was getting into the mindset of "YESSSS!!!! NO MORE WORK!!" Then, I walked into the bar and my friends said "Hey! Happy Last Day!" aaaaaand I lost it. Right there at Columbus Cafe- très embarrassing, but really demonstrates how I feel about my A&P peeps. A frosty brew helped the situation, but now it's Monday morning and I'm late for the Ning internal team call...right?

Soon enough it was Saturday, the day of my big going-away party. I was psyched! I scrounged together enough pennies to get my nails done, and my gorgeous girlfriend Kyra treated me to a makeover at MAC. Fake eyelashes and everything (which I kept telling people - I think the point is for everyone to think, "Gosh, doesn't Susie have lovely lush eyelashes!")!! We had rented out a bar in SOMA and I was so happy to have all my besties (even Linds, all the way from NY!) there. I told everyone I wasn't really leaving, and it was a just a test to see who my friends are...and they passed with flying colors! 'Bon Voyage' flags with my name on the other side, cupcakes, stickers with sentiments like "Who would you rather Susie come back looking like? Snooki or J-Woww?" and "My drunkest memory of Susie is..." and "Would you bail Susie out of a Turkish prison? Yes or No?". It was FANTASTIC!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you to my fabulous friends who went to the trouble to put it all together, including the BF (Who, I just realized, has never been identified here by name. Chris!).

Oh, and all you Gleeks out there?! OH. MY. GLEE!!!! There was a Glee star at my party - Jonathan Groff who plays Jesse St. James from Vocal Adrenaline. I ABOUT lost my mind because I'm nutty about that show, but I held it together to have a great chat with him, and he was so awesome as to indulge all my inane questions about the rest of the cast. So Jonathan if you're reading this, it was a pleasure and thanks so much for being so chill! Katie, thanks for bringing Jonathan along!

So, all in all, fabulous time. Spent yesterday sunning self in park and just enjoying my beautiful city. San Francisco, I have SO much stuff- it's going to be really hard to carry it all, so to lighten the load, I think I'll have to leave my heart here.